Welcome to our series “Buzzy Beauty Ingredient of the Moment,” the premise of which is pretty self-explanatory: In each installment, we’ll explore an ingredient that’s currently trending in the industry, springing up in a variety of different products lining the beauty aisle. We’ll consult experts to find out about the science behind it — and why it’s having a major moment right now.

It may be difficult to believe now, but the term “CBD,” short for cannabidiol oil, first appeared on Fashionista just five years ago. Back then, in 2017, the health and beauty industries were playing host to a new flurry of chic, weed-based products, each with a claim more fantastical than the next. A luxury serum that helped skin retain moisture? CBD. An Instagrammable tincture that promised relief from anxiety, pain and even problematic sleep patterns? CBD.